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An essential guide to the TranzAlpine Express New Zealand

During our recent extended stay in New Zealand, we were lucky enough to take a ride on the famous TranzAlpine Express in the South Island. 

I’ll admit we didn’t know a lot about this popular rail journey before our journey, and we found very little information online from people who had made the journey (except for a few YouTube videos) 

That’s why we’ve put together this essential guide to the TranzAlpine Express to help you make the most of your trip on this breathtakingly scenic rail route. 

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We travelled on the TranzAlpine on a rather rainy grey September day, but it was still a fantastic train journey!

The TranzAlpine Express is an epic and varied sightseeing train which follows a historic track across the mountainous spine of New Zealand’s South Island. 

It is the most scenic train ride in New Zealand and is considered to be one of the great railway journeys of the world. 

If you like trains, mountains and countryside views, I think the TranzAlpine is unmissable. 

The TranzAlpine runs between Christchurch on the South Island’s east coast and Greymouth on the west coast. 

The journey is 223 km / 139 miles long but the train makes several stops along the route for passengers to break their journey or to stretch their legs. 

If you are short on time or budget, you can buy a ticket to ride shorter sections of the route, but to appreciate the diversity of New Zealand’s South Island fully, we recommend staying on board until Greymouth if you can. 

The comfortable and purpose built TranzAlpine train carriages are specifically designed to make the most of the passing scenery; these are not ordinary rail carriages. 

Scenic Class carriages consist mostly of front facing, airline style seats next to large panoramic untinted windows. A few table seats for 4 are available if you are travelling as a group or as a family. 

There is also an open air viewing carriage which has no seats and no glass between you and the breathtaking views so it’s perfect for photographers. You’ll need a head for heights if you stand here at some vertiginous points in the journey! 

You cannot buy a ticket solely for the open air carriage; it is an additional carriage you can visit during the trip. If you want to get the best photos, you must visit this carriage at least once during the journey but I advise wrapping up warm as it can be chilly, even in summer.

As of 2023, there are also Scenic Plus carriages whose reclining seats provide more spacious leg room. A Scenic Plus ticket also includes a freshly cooked meal with wine which is served to your seat.

A second open-air viewing carriage is provided exclusively for Scenic Plus guests. All carriages have roof windows so you can feel completely immersed in the view. 

Guests can also enjoy a commentary about the history, flora and fauna of the areas you travel through using complimentary headphones at your seat.  The commentary is available in 5 languages and is well worth listening to; I learnt a lot and felt the commentary enhanced my trip. 

Each guest, no matter what level of ticket you purchase, is allowed up to 23kg of luggage but this must be stored in a separate luggage carriage. However, you are allowed to take small bags up to 7kg to your seat which proved plenty of allowance for me.

It’s worth noting that due to weather conditions, the track must periodically close for regular maintenance so make sure you check closure days here in advance of your trip. 

After leaving busy Christchurch, the train travels across the picturesque Canterbury Plains before starting its ascent to the Southern Alps through the Waimakariri River valley. 

The train crosses several steel bridges straddling deep gorges and valleys and passes through a series of short tunnels during its climb. The highest bridge you’ll cross is the ‘Staircase’, standing an impressive 73 metres above the Waimakariri River. 

There are new, spectacular views around every bend and we couldn’t tear my eyes away from the windows during this leg of the trip. For the best views of the Waimakariri River gorge, we recommend sitting on the right hand side of the train.

The train makes a stop at picturesque Arthurs Pass before descending to the Otira Tunnel, which at 8.6 km / 5.3 miles long is one of the longest tunnels in New Zealand. 

Once out of the Alps, the train passes through forests of alpine beech, past the Old Brunner Mine and makes a stop at Moana, next to Lake Brunner, before making its final run to the coastal town of Greymouth. 

A lady on the TranzAlpine Express New Zealand.

Unfortunately, the TranzAlpine is not cheap – but it’s something you’re unlikely to do twice.

Ticket prices vary according to the season but, unfortunately for off peak travellers, it’s not significantly cheaper to ride at off peak times. 

For example, a one way fare from Christchurch to Greymouth on a weekend day in the peak summer season costs $249 NZD for adults and $174 NZD for children in a Scenic carriage. 

The additional legroom and windows of the Scenic Plus carriages come at an extra cost. A one way, peak season weekend fare costs a hefty $499 NZD for both adults and children. 

In off peak months, the fare for a Scenic Plus seat drops only slightly to $479 for adults and children. A Scenic seat will cost $219 for adults and $153 for children. 

You can also buy a day ticket which includes a 1 hour stop at Greymouth and your return ticket to Christchurch (you’ll arrive back in Christchurch around 7 pm). This fare is only available in Scenic seats and costs $469 NZD for adults and $329 NZD for children. 

Children are classed as aged 2 – 14 years and under 2’s are free. 

You can change or cancel your booking up to 24 hours before departure but if you cancel within 24 hours of departure you will forfeit your money. This pre-cancellation policy is a good option if the weather forecast looks bad for your chosen day. 

If for any reason your train is cancelled, you have the option of a full refund or a transfer to another day. 

It’s worth noting however, that some disgruntled online reviews say that the train stopped early due to poor weather or technical difficulties and guests had to transfer onto a bus for the remainder of the journey. In this case, it appears you would not be entitled to a refund. This did not happen to me but apparently it has happened to others. 

The TranzAlpine departs at different frequencies depending on the season. 

Between the end of September and May, the train departs seven days a week. This drops to four days a week (Friday to Monday) between early May and the end of June. 

There is only one departure a day from Christchurch, usually at 8.15 am or 8.35 am.  

The journey takes around 5 hours each way. If you depart at 8.15 am, you will arrive in Greymouth at 1.10 pm. 

The train has two levels of heated / air conditioned carriages, a luggage carriage, a kitchen carriage serving Scenic Plus passengers and a cafe carriage. Passengers can buy soft drinks, hot beverages, alcohol, snacks and light meals from the cafe carriage.

Each carriage has an air bag suspension system ensuring a quiet and smooth journey. The non-reflective windows make the most of the scenic views. There’s a toilet for each carriage and the entire train – including the open-air carriages – is a no-smoking zone.  

The TranzAlpine is accessible to all ages and abilities.

Children under 2 are free but will not get their own seat so they must sit on their parents lap. Prams or buggies must be stored in the luggage carriage but you are allowed to bring a car seat on board with you so your child can sleep (or you can take a break from carrying them!)

Some carriages have space for wheelchair users and there is a toilet for passengers with disabilities. 

Plus, there is a hearing loop in the cafe carriage for hearing impaired travellers. 

We think the TranzAlpine is absolutely worth it. It’s expensive but it’s not a commuter train – this is a journey you’ll likely only do once in your lifetime. 

New Zealand is a spectacularly scenic country – and this is one of the most scenic journeys you can do in New Zealand. You won’t be disappointed if you take this train. 

Admittedly, you can drive or catch a bus for parts of the route but you won’t be able to sit back and savour the views in the same way as you can on the train. Plus, we think travelling by train also gives you a greater sense of immersion in nature and isolation from the modern world. 

If the ticket price is out of your budget, you can do shorter sections of the trip instead of the whole journey. I’d recommend doing the Christchurch to Arthur Pass leg as we thought this part of the trip offered the most dramatic scenery. Remember the best views are from the right side of the train when travelling to Greymouth, and on the left side when travelling towards Christchurch. 

It is hard to put into words how awe-inspiring and spectacular the scenery on this journey is; we think it showcased the best that New Zealand has to offer. Hopefully, our photos can do the talking instead!

If you have the time and money to ride on the TranzAlpine Express, do it. We promise you won’t regret it.