Scenic journeys, cultural gems, and a relaxed pace.
Planning your first trip to Sri Lanka? Our Sri Lanka itinerary outlines a well-paced route ideal for first-timers. Over 19 days, we travelled through some of the country’s most memorable destinations, including Colombo, Galle, Yala, Ella, Kandy, Sigiriya and Dambulla.
We designed this itinerary to allow time to settle in, enjoy each destination properly, and avoid rushing from place to place. If you are looking for a whirlwind tour, this may feel slow. But if you prefer a more relaxed approach to travel with time to rest and explore, this route works well.
Our route moved in an anti-clockwise direction from Colombo to the south coast, then inland via Ella and Kandy, before returning to Colombo.
Planning tip: Travel anti-clockwise if possible. Trains from Colombo to Galle and from Ella to Kandy are easier to book than the reverse. Travelling this route clockwise can make it more challenging to secure train seats, especially during busy periods.
Table of Contents
19 day Sri Lanka Itinerary
Days 1 to 3 – Arrival and Exploring Colombo
Base: Marino Beach Hotel, Colombo (3 nights)
We flew into Colombo with Qatar Airways (after a short stay in Doha) and arranged a hotel pickup through Marino Beach. The drive into the city was longer than expected due to rush hour traffic, so allow extra time if arriving in the evening.
Marino Beach Hotel is an excellent base for your first few days. It offers comfortable rooms, a rooftop pool, and a selection of on-site restaurants, which is very convenient when you’re adjusting after a long journey.
We spent our first full day collecting our pre-booked train tickets from Colombo Fort Railway Station. You need to exchange online vouchers for physical tickets, so we took a hotel-organised taxi to the station. After sorting the tickets, we returned to the hotel by tuk-tuk (of which there are many waiting at the station)
The following day, we joined the hotel’s free afternoon city tour, which took us past Galle Face Green, the Old Parliament, Independence Memorial Hall, temples, and other landmarks. We thought this was a fantastic offering by the hotel and recommend taking the tour if you stay at the Marino Beach Hotel.
Later, we had sunset drinks at the rooftop bar and enjoyed the buffet dinner at the hotel restaurant.
Colombo travel tips:
- Marino Beach Hotel was the perfect choice for comfort and convenience
- Book train tickets in advance and collect them at Colombo Fort Station early in your trip. We booked through 12GoAsia and found the process really straightforward.
- Tuk-tuks are cheap and practical for short journeys. Just be ready to negotiate! We asked at our accommodation for the estimated cost, so we at least had a ballpark figure to haggle over.
Days 4 to 6 – Exploring Galle and Galle Fort
Base: Villa White Queen, Galle (3 nights)
Transport: Train from Colombo to Galle (approx. 2 hours)
The train journey from Colombo to Galle follows the coastline, offering beautiful views. We travelled on the 15.50 train, which was busy but enjoyable. We booked first-class tickets for this train, which meant air-conditioned comfort.
Train tip: Morning trains tend to be less crowded. Booking southbound trains (Colombo to Galle) is typically easier than returning in the opposite direction.
Galle Fort is a UNESCO-listed historic town featuring colonial architecture, narrow lanes, galleries, boutiques, and churches. Over three days, we explored the Fort walls, visited the Dutch Reformed Church, photographed the cricket ground and gates, and made numerous stops at cafés and small shops.
We also booked afternoon tea at Amangalla Hotel, a beautiful colonial property with an elegant setting. It was a lovely way to spend a relaxing afternoon.
On another day, we treated ourselves to a massage, which we found reasonably priced. We dined at Chambers Restaurant, which served excellent Middle Eastern cuisine inside the Fort walls.
Our visit coincided with the Sri Lankan New Year in mid-April. It’s a festive time, but restaurants are not permitted to serve alcohol during the holiday.
Galle travel tips:
- Recommended accommodation – Villa White Queen
- Plan to spend at least two full days exploring the Fort and the surrounding areas
- Amangalla is a beautiful place for afternoon tea, but make sure to reserve ahead of time
- Chambers is highly recommended for dinner (it was one of favourite meals of the trip)
- During New Year, expect closures and limited drink service
Days 7 to 10 – Yala National Park and Wildlife Safaris
Base: Hotel Wild Culture (4 nights)
Transport: Private car from Galle (approx. 2.5 hours, 19,000 LKR)
We travelled inland to Yala by private transfer and checked into Hotel Wild Culture. The property is conveniently located near the park and features a good pool, spacious rooms, and friendly staff. However, food was expensive, and drink options were limited.
Safari 1
Our first safari started at 5:00 a.m. The park was crowded due to the New Year holidays, and although we saw elephants, monkeys, birds, and mongooses, we did not spot a leopard. The guide was not very engaging, and the heavy vehicle traffic inside the park made it feel chaotic.
Safari 2
Two days later, our second safari was much better. Although we were disappointed to see the same guide this time, we made it clear what we wanted to see, and the experience improved. We spotted a leopard, elephants, a snake, and many birds.
Do be aware that the roads can be very bumpy, so wear comfortable clothing and bring water and sun protection.
The hotel provided safari snacks and drinks, which was very helpful. Between safaris, we rested and caught up on work, although Wi-Fi at Wild Resort was poor.
Yala travel tips:
- Safaris begin very early. Be ready for 4.30 am wake-ups
- One or two safaris are usually enough – go in the morning its the best time to see the animals (and its cooler)
- Ask in advance about your guide – experiences can vary
- Avoid visiting during national holidays if you want a quieter park
Days 11 to 13 – Ella and the Hill Country
Base: Ella Cloud Castle Homestay (3 nights)
Transport: Private car from Yala to Ella (approx. 2 hours)
We travelled to Ella and checked into the homestay (note it is at the top of a steep hill). The views were excellent, and the Wi-Fi was strong; however, meals weren’t available during our stay, despite what was advertised, which we were very disappointed.
Ella is a very popular stop for backpackers, and we found it busy and commercial. That said, we found a few gems, especially The Barn Restaurant, which had excellent food, live music, and friendly staff.
One of the must-see attractions in Ella is the Nine Arches Viaduct. We watched a train pass from a nearby café and were lucky to catch it within 15 minutes of arriving. The elevated view from the café was much easier and cooler than walking down to the tracks.
Ella travel tips:
- The Barn is a fantastic dinner spot with a great atmosphere
- Visit the Nine Arches Viaduct early and ask your tuk-tuk driver for train times
- Ella is scenic, but can feel over-touristed
Day 14 – Scenic Train to Kandy
Base: The Kandyan Manor by Bhathiya & Suzy (3 nights)
Transport: Train from Ella to Kandy (approx. 6 hours)
This was one of the trip’s highlights. The journey from Ella to Kandy is world-famous for a reason. We had reserved second-class seats and enjoyed incredible views of tea plantations, misty hills, and small villages. People sat in the open doors to take photos and enjoy the breeze. It was a fabulous experience and the 6 hours flew by.
Once in Kandy, we checked into The Kandyan Manor, a beautiful homestay just outside the city. Suzy cooked us a delicious Sri Lankan dinner, and Doug enjoyed the pool. The house was peaceful, and the hosts, Bhathiya and Suzy, were friendly and welcoming.
Train tips:
- Book second-class reserved seats well in advance
- Bring snacks and water.
- Try to sit on the right-hand side for the best views departing Ella
Day 15 – Peradeniya Gardens and Kandy at Festival Time
Kandy was extremely busy during our visit due to the rare public opening of the Temple of the Tooth Relic’s inner chamber. Over a million people were in the city, and we thanks to Suzy’s recommendation, we chose to avoid the centre and visit the Peradeniya Botanical Gardens instead.
The gardens were beautiful, with orchids, palms, and shady paths.
Kandy tips:
- Visit Peradeniya Gardens if the city is too busy
- Check local festival calendars – these can affect transport and access
- Kandy Manor is a peaceful retreat and offers excellent meals
Days 16 to 19 – Sigiriya, Dambulla & Return to Colombo
Day Trip to Sigiriya and Dambulla
We booked a private driver to take us from Kandy to visit Sigiriya and Dambulla.
We arrived at Sigiriya before 9:00 a.m. and paid for our entry tickets.
Doug climbed all 1,202 steps of Sigiriya Rock, while I opted out due to the heat and followed the exit path from the base. Doug’s photos attest that the views from the top are amazing. He did find that queues were long and the climb is pretty strenuous, so I was happy with my decision not to climb it.
After Sigiriya, we drove to the cave temples at Dambulla. By this time, it was very hot and though I was a little daunted by the 200-plus steps up to the caves, we took it slowly (avoiding monkeys on the way up)
At the top, prior to entry to the cave temples, you are required to check in your shoes and then walk to the entrance barefoot over hot stone. I struggled as the ground was boiling – I think there were tears in my eyes, and I ran as fast as I could to stand in the shade. My recommendation is to take socks as they are essential here.
Inside, the caves are filled with golden Buddha statues and stunning ceiling art, which are simply breathtaking and an incredible sight.
Tips:
- Start early to avoid heat at Sigiriya
- Use the alternate exit path if not climbing
- Wear socks at Dambulla for comfort
Return to Colombo by Train
We had one more train trip to look forward to, and on day 19 of our Sri Lanka itinerary, we boarded the 2.30 pm train from Kandy to Colombo. We had reserved seats in the observation car which was fantastic.
The views were fabulous, and the scenery was lush and green. It was a relaxing way to return to Colombo.
We had once again booked a room at the Marino Beach Hotel, where we had stored our main luggage for the duration of the trip around Sri Lanka.
Final Day and Departure
We used our last day in Colombo to visit the Australian High Commission (to vote in the Australian election), catch up on work, and enjoy a final buffet dinner. The hotel arranged our airport transfer for our evening flight to Kuala Lumpur.
Special Thanks
Huge thanks to the excellent staff who made our stay so memorable, including wonderful Imasha at Marino Beach and Savinda at Villa White Queen. Also, lovely couple Bhathiya & Suzy in Kandy.
Their kindness made a lasting impression.
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